The task of image captioning has recently been gaining popularity, and with it the complex task of evaluating the quality of image captioning models. In this work, we present the first survey and taxonomy of over 70 different image captioning metrics and their usage in hundreds of papers. We find that despite the diversity of proposed metrics, the vast majority of studies rely on only five popular metrics, which we show to be weakly correlated with human judgements. Instead, we propose EnsembEval -- an ensemble of evaluation methods achieving the highest reported correlation with human judgements across 5 image captioning datasets, showing there is a lot of room for improvement by leveraging a diverse set of metrics.