Recent works showed the possibility of building open-vocabulary large language models (LLMs) that directly operate on pixel representations and are implemented as encoder-decoder models that reconstruct masked image patches of rendered text. However, these pixel-based LLMs are limited to autoencoding tasks and cannot generate new text as images. As such, they cannot be used for open-answer or generative language tasks. In this work, we overcome this limitation and introduce PIXAR, the first pixel-based autoregressive LLM that does not rely on a pre-defined vocabulary for both input and output text. Consisting of only a decoder, PIXAR can answer free-form generative tasks while keeping the text representation learning performance on par with previous encoder-decoder models. Furthermore, we highlight the challenges to autoregressively generate non-blurred text as images and link this to the usual maximum likelihood objective. We propose a simple adversarial pretraining that significantly improves the readability and performance of PIXAR making it comparable to GPT2 on short text generation tasks. This paves the way to building open-vocabulary LLMs that are usable for free-form generative tasks and questions the necessity of the usual symbolic input representation -- text as tokens -- for these challenging tasks.