Modern neural networks are undeniably successful. Numerous studies have investigated how the curvature of loss landscapes can affect the quality of solutions. In this work we consider the Hessian matrix during network training. We reiterate the connection between the number of "well-determined" or "effective" parameters and the generalisation performance of neural nets, and we demonstrate its use as a tool for model comparison. By considering the local curvature, we propose Sharpness Adjusted Number of Effective parameters (SANE), a measure of effective dimensionality for the quality of solutions. We show that SANE is robust to large learning rates, which represent learning regimes that are attractive but (in)famously unstable. We provide evidence and characterise the Hessian shifts across "loss basins" at large learning rates. Finally, extending our analysis to deeper neural networks, we provide an approximation to the full-network Hessian, exploiting the natural ordering of neural weights, and use this approximation to provide extensive empirical evidence for our claims.